Drifts through the window quite clearly indicate, that the next season splitboardová long time ago here, and it is time to change a little climbing shoes neohrabanější, but it zateplenější snowborďácký sněhule, pick up the repaired tracks, vyhrabat lavinový nádobíčko a poštelovat Split. Before all this I do, But still I will try to remember one of the last events of last season, I think that a bit of přehrabávání still in memory, so přeju friendly počtení and perhaps inspiration for one of your trips…
For once I added it to attack ledolezecký pair - the lament of David, who recently returned from the campaign úspěšnýho skostkej Ben Nevis, (of which can počíst here) – It could have warned me. The plan was to climb the north face Similaun Otztálkách bůhvíkudy go off and then back to Martin-Busch Huet….

Similaun North Face (photo by Alas)
On Friday night we get to the parking in Vent and solve the usual dilemma of whether to sleep or go to chat. Despite warnings cottagers, At night we go, because the road is dangerous, we decide to go – avalanche situation is still good, But the weekend it is corrupt, therefore not to waste time…On the way to surpass several chat lavinišť (travel must be after a long rain head open on the fact). At one point on vymrzlých traverses it on my split slowly slipping away somewhere in the valley behind the sound of the river…no choice but to hack the ax and made an unpopular operation nandavání crampons under the binding (you would like to dragonflies from Sparks!). The gargantuan and apparently crowded Martin-Busch Huet vyfluslí we get a total of around one in the morning, after rapid drying things to be spread as quickly and fit into prázdnýho studenýho winterraumu. At eight in the morning expelling us from the bunks logger "charmer", outside the fog and snow is flying. When we got up, vyrážíme obhlédnout Similaun. The weather finally umoudřilo, in azure mantle Otztálky faces monumental, but total kindly. Stoupáme is a obcházíme séraky ledovci, when we have four hours of the North Star appears Similaun.

Gradual onset (photo by Alas)

David (photo by Alas)
It is quite lost in time and look as kindly at all - it is clear, that today we would not give her. It is therefore sufficient eyes slightly to the left, where the shimmering plains stands a huge slide Hintere Schwaerze Nordwand (5O ° ledofirn, 3624m, 250 climbing meters). The goal is decided. After an hour of the onset, we, nandaváme seats, ski and travel back splits, observed in the wall fighting duo, who wanted to first solo, then sure.

Amazing Hintere Schwarz Nordwand (photo by Alas)
It turns out, that the wall is quite vymrzlá, I am so happy for her attack a pin, turisťák while I usually manage to hack a few trial. I'm beginning to suspect, cats in the tourist club store is not exactly the right. After several tens of meters of me one cat allowed undetected, falls off and roll off a few meters down… Since I screwed, I have to call David, that the cat come down and lend me two ledošrouby for resting during nandavání. Climb on, I only know about a slower pace - soft shoes and tourist cats are not the right equipment to climb the ice front points (even if "only" 50 °) - Man is too often tripping and podjíždí, so stay hang on just one útočňáku.

In the wall
I kept at it, but better than that of neighboring čehún twos, the ice banging his beak homemade welded to the tube, the legs of cats in 1920…. in its place, I would also like to pledge, and maybe even packed. Above our heads a few times rounded off to a helicopter patrol the mountain and looking at us suspiciously from the heel (at this time of day there we had to act like a nice bunch of exotic) eventually calms down and leaves. By proceeding without a rope I'm about as fast as neighboring deuce, dolejzám slides on top of a few resting in tightening the screws on the all-out high, crampons, calf insentient. Left for me than lying in the snow and collect power to the Congress, Eleven conquer while nedalekýho vrcholovýho Cross, which for me at the moment, completely out of reach…

Top Cross (photo by Alas)
Congress of the normal means of egress - skialpovou route is quite famous affair, one might almost say, but it's worth
. We enjoy the great plains, zachvíli we're taking the, Now it remains to enjoy, morning we 4 hours of being picked. This part is great. Ultimately no choice but to overcome the unpleasant traverse back to the hut.
The evening meal is served with the Royal portions of stew Radler and the satisfaction we missing anything.
On Sunday I wake up in heavy rain. Followed by a descent into the valley and return to Prague…

Here we go ... (photo by Alas)
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